A Travellerspoint blog

A change of most things... except the €!

First week in Italy..


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Travel Update

Saturday 23/4/16:

The Cinque Terre

It's a rainy day in La Spezia. Just as well we checked the weather forecast and had a huge day yesterday in the Cinque Terre (Five Lands in English). It has become one of the most visited regions in Italy (after the real BIGGIES), UNESCO has proclaimed it a "heritage of mankind" and the area has been turned into a Marine National Park - very special!
The deal is that in the twelfth century, folks decided it a good idea to begin to create precarious terraces on very unsafe cliff faces so they could grow special vineyards, olive & citrus trees (still there today!) A crazy idea really but it has worked and the 'Cinque Terre' are actually the five little villages hidden in the narrow inlets along this coastline. Most of these villages are not accessible by vehicles but an amazing train line runs precariously along the coast only metres from the sea, a lot of it through tunnels - an engineering feat (not built in the twelfth century!)
We decided to 'do it' by ferry from La Spezia which ended up being a superb idea. We left on the first ferry and arrived back on the last (an 11 hour day). Jen exhausted two batteries and took over 800 photos. The highlight had to be the strenuous trek we did from Vernezza to Montorossa. We had packed our walking sticks (had we added them to our packing list?) They were absolutely necessary. We had to pay €6 (about $9) each for the privilege of walking this track but we could see no evidence of any maintenance being done. I even nearly fell through a fence when Jen was trying to get a shot of me with some gorgeous background. No real complaints though. It was spectacular... Jen will put up a decent show of what we saw!
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Tuesday 26/4/16:

Milan.. Big buildings, Big Fashion Designers, Big Names, Big Crowds, Big days...

We are about to start on our one & only guided tour of Northern Italy... There are only 4 Aussies in the group plus an Italian Aussie guide.. Should be interesting! However, the last couple of days, we have walked our legs off in this city of Milan with a BIG reputation for it's fashion designer labels, it's ornate buildings, especially the indescribable Duomo which takes up probably a space the size of a football field and rises into the sky with numerous spires, all with with statues on top, and it's vibrant economy. Well, we fitted right in with the designer labels (ha!).. Kathmandu, Macpac and the odd item from Target just didn't cut it. Most of the crowds were just window shopping like us though!!
In our opinion, the most famous notary of this city has to be the brilliant Leonardo da Vinci: a true genius of the Italian Renaissance He lived here for 20 years in & around 1490. We was a painter, inventor, mathematician and general allround clever chap! We happened upon a most outstanding exhibition of his major creative design ideas. They have been able to gather together quite a lot of his books of notes and drawings (he produced over 500 in all!) The painting of 'The Lord's Supper' can be found in a not-so-well-known church here. We missed seeing it as it was a public holiday when we wanted to get to see it! His other most famous painting 'Mona Lisa' is in Le Louvre, Paris.
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The noblest pleasure is the joy of understanding.” - Leonardo da Vinci

A few Confessions.. We ARE in Italy!!

Eil has developed head cold. It could be from the constant changes of temperature; warm inside buildings then cool to cold & often windy outside.

We feel we are not travelling 'light enough'!! To our great surprise and consternation, our one bedroom with ensuite (booked through AirBnb) in Milan was neatly 100 steps up at the top of a very old (maybe 1800s) apartment building where we have no idea how many were living. No lift! Time to read the fine points!!

We are missing our pets (who are being very well-cared for by Kirsty & Martin who send us very regular updates with photos to show how contented they are!) We also miss seeing our little adopted grandchildren, Teddy & Isabelle to give them cuddles as they are growing too quickly. Teddy is 3 this week & Isabelle is a cute 16 months. We have very disjointed chats on FaceTime though!! Bear & Bunny are saving up lots of stories to share with them!

No more Confessions but some Comparisons and general Comments

• Rubbish disposal in the areas we have been in is a collective activity. There are big industrial bins in most streets and everyone just dumps into the communal bins.. All very well we say until someone has a lovely prawn lunch and heaves the remains into such a bin.. Very woofy! It seems less of a priority to recycle as well.. Sad for such a massive population on such a small patch of our planet!

• It could be just us but the change of language from the lilting French to the more excitable Italian sound has been a bit alarming.. We'd no sooner got over the border than we witnessed not one, but two rather loud and animated arguments (both involved train guards!)

• Remember that 'Ladies Room' under the Brisbane City Hall where we could all trot in (if we were Ladies, that is) 'spend a Penny', powder our noses, refresh the lippy and be off? (showing our collective age!) Well, it is not 'a Penny' in these parts! How does €1 ($1.50) sound per person! The toilet paper was of no superior standard for the price either!!

  • Train Travel is NOT for the delicate! Lugging our bags up & down stairs (even though our bags are 'light' has had it's moments.. There are very few ramps , escalators or lifts it seems in France & Italy!! The level of cigaarette smoke in subways and on platforms would have our fire alarms going off at home. We reckon one in two people smoke here... BUT, in defence of train travel, the Metro system (as practised in Milan so far) has put Brisbane public transport to shame. We bought a 24hr ticket for €4.50 (about $7) and we just jumped on & off the trains, trams & buses whenever we liked and there was no waiting.. Maximum time of wait was 4 minutes.

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  • We've met some very friendly travellers as we have sauntered around, two of whom we met at the same Cafe they had dropped into in Montorossa after the strenuous hike in the Cinque Terre. They apparently we're watching us and Bill (American) said to his wife (also American), 'By the way those girls slammed those beers down, they must be Aussies!' We were and we did! (It was a big hike!)

Agony Aunt is back

Dear Agony Aunt: We feel confused.. Maybe you could help. Never in our life have we seen so many skinny people in one place as we did in France.. How can this be? Is it genetic, eating their main meal (with wine) at lunchtime, having a daily siesta or maybe it's all the walking they do?
Answer: it's all of the above.. Now, stop complaining about your heritage and have some more pasta.. you're in Italy now, get over it!
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Dear Agony Aunt: We are truly in agony over this one: why is it that the French AND the Italian folk are free to have their pets with them wherever they go.. Buses, boats, restaurants, shops, and even the odd toilet, but our pets are restricted to dog parks and footpaths (& Gracie chooses neither!)
Answer: no idea!
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And now:
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In case you can"t read this:

W take photos to capture a moment that will otherwise be lost

Posted by TravellingLight 13:07 Comments (9)

It's the little things...

Last days in France

sunny 20 °C
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When travelling, it's very easy to search out the 'big things': such as Notre Dame Cathedral, the abbey at Mt St Michael and the 'amazing things' such as the Chauvet Caves, The Camargue. But we have had the privilege of finding some of the 'little things' in the French countryside as we have meandered along.
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We have some confessions to make!

We are addicted to French vin, baguettes and fromage

At first, the sight of these Frenck folk with a baguette or two stuck under their arm as they wander along the Rue to a Fromagerie to pick up their cheese then off home to their glass of vin, made us scoff.. But, never again! We are seriously considering importing at least some vin to Australia!!
Two of our most memorable days while we were in Bonneaux, tucked up on the top of a hill overlooking the vineyards and apple orchards of the Luberon Valley, was our bike ride and then a day when we enjoyed a couple of walks in the bush.. Check out the photos! We carried our supplies with us and found a spot to enjoy a picnic... We loved those days!
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Travelling Light??

Now, the travelling light thing... In the strictly physical way, we must confess that every little village we have visited has SO many tempting local products and we felt moved by the need to keep the economy rolling... In a spiritual way though, our hearts have been lifted high with genuine thankfulness that we have this opportunity to see some of the most beautiful places in the world (other than Australia, of course!)
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Bike Rider's Bum

It is with some embarrassment that we must confess that the 45 km bike ride caused some soreness in the nether regions. We didn't bring our specially padded bike pants and the tracks we rode over were very bumpy.. We did have the advantage of spring-loaded seats... A French invention but we have been hesitant to climb aboard a bike since that remarkable day!!
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Brisbane Coffee is the best

France may have the best wine, baguettes and cheese we have ever tasted but, we have not been able to find anywhere that serves up coffee like our Brisbane Baristas... Coffee Hit, Carindale and Campos Coffee at The Rabbit Hole... Take a bow..
We think, the reason they don't serve good coffee is because the French folk don't actually stop work for morning tea... They go straight into a 2 hour lunch at 12 noon.. Who knows when they eat all those delicious treats in the Patisseries!! (Possibly at breakfast time.. We are rarely out and about until 10am-ish
as we have supplies at home.)
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Terrible Teeth

This is not a 'Jen issue'.. Her teeth are nearly as good as in her youth... My teeth are barely staying in my head... And one of the biggest fillings I have has decided to attach itself to a lolly I was eating and leave my mouth... Thankfully, there is no pain but my food selection has reduced to mushy, soft food and a generous amount of fluids!! (And Jen says I chew like a rabbit now!!)

Driving can be dangerous

We mentioned before that we hired a car in Arles and, after a malfunction or two in those narrow Rues, we got out into the country and had no real problems. As most would know, both Jen & I are very left-handed. This does not cause us many issues which we can't move on from but driving on the right- hand side of the road, using my right-hand to change gears, left my poor left-hand with very little to do except the odd flicker indication.
All went well until our GPS decided to take us for a drive through the absolute dead centre of the second biggest city in France, Marselles! (In defence of the GPS, we didn't realise that we had to tick the box marked TOLLS which would have helped us avoid the calamity, we will hence forth call Marselles Mayhem!) we can slightly smile about it now but.. Driving up a one-way street the wrong way, driving down a strictly Bus Only lane, negotiating the crazy central round-about where Raffity ruled, then finding another one-way lane which we decided to enter so we could do a hairpin 8 point turn, while a very kind lady watched us with some dismay, so we could get on the motorway to Nice.. It was then that we realised our mistake, ticked the offensive box and paid our way to Nice Airport where we can say we dropped off the car without a scratch on it!! We both needed a massage after that!!
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Now for some interesting facts

Undies

Now, we know there were several folk who checked out our clothes itinerary and were very concerned that we had listed only 3 pair of 'smalls' ( as well as the obvious pair we would be wearing). We would like to report that all is well and, thanks to the Chinese Laundry wishy washy every night, all is under control... Actually, we are very impressed with the range of clothes we have (in fact, we could have done with one less set of warm clothes)... We have worn most of them and have not got sick of any of them yet!! The weather in Provence was very mild so we were able to give the gloves, scarves and beanies a bit of a break!
Just a 'heads up' for an Aussie invention called a Scrubba.https://the scrubby.com Our dear friends, Donna & Beck put us onto it. It's basically a heavy-duty plastic bag with a roll-up opening to keep the water & clothes in and on one side of the bag there is a slightly serrated section acting as an irritant to the ingrained dirt. It works brilliantly.. The major advantage is that there is no water spillage in the bathroom and you can really give your clothes a good agitate!
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Sunday Trading

Why, oh, why do Australians feel the need to shop every day of the week? It has been a refreshing discovery that the French actually still have Sunday as a day of rest, family and for God. Because we are tourists, we got out there on Sunday expecting everything to be open and every little village to have their doors open for business... Not so... What a shame we have become such a consumer, materialistic society that every day is the same in Australia. We were sure the major tourist spots would be open 7 days but to find the locals all enjoying a day off was both refreshing and a rebuke to us both.
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The Mistral... boy, can it blow!!

In case you are wondering, we had excellent weather while we were in Provence for 10 days... Blue skies shining above us... However - There is a wind that will blow the 'fleas off a dog'... and they call it 'The Mistral'. It comes down from the North Sea, through the Rhone Valley, through Provence and ends up blowing out into the Medditeranean Sea... We have felt its effects... No wonder our cheeks glow... Over 30kms/hr... Brrrrr. In fact it was SO strong, swirly and biting that we could not walk in it!!
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“Voiceless it cries,
Wingless flutters,
Toothless bites,
Mouthless mutters

― J.R.R. Tolkien, The Hobbit

The last days in France

We have been spoiled! We have spent so many days in the idyllic countryside of Provence that Nice seems very bold and brassy. Our apartment is a little haven only a couple of Rues from the Prominade that everyone raves about... But we can't help noting the rocky foreshore and dreaming of our pristine sandy beaches of home. The water admittedly is azure blue and very picturesque... But the crowds of people... It's a very popular holiday destination for the Brits and the Americans, we think!!

Next Stop: The Cinque Terra in Italy

Our dear friend, Kath, shared this poem with us... we thought it well worth it to pass it on:

Praying

It doesn’t have to be
the blue iris, it could be
weeds in a vacant lot, or a few
small stones; just
pay attention, then patch
a few words together and don’t try
to make them elaborate, this isn’t
a contest but the doorway
into thanks, and a silence in which
another voice may speak.
Mary Oliver

Posted by TravellingLight 08:27 Comments (9)

Provence... Ah! Provence...

Part 2.... thought that was it, didn't you!!

sunny 16 °C
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People of Provence

Helpful! Now don't believe the gossip! We have not been able to find a French person yet who has not been kind, helpful and gracious to us as tourists. It has been a remarkable transformation since the last time we were here in 1994 (but then we may have just met a few cranky ones who hadn't had their morning coffee.) We are hopeless at speaking French but everyone is very generous in their attitude to us.

Surprising! The people of Arles in south-western Provence seem to LOVE the bull fights as much as their neighbours the Spanish. There are two types of events and different bulls are bred up to fill the need. We met both varieties on our guided tour of the Camargue and we would not like to be chased by either type!

Traditional! Now you might think that the French are avant-garde, but the truth is they are very traditional.. Two examples! They refuse to switch to screw-top wine bottles (reason being they have not proved themselves yet) and they prefer manual cars to automatic (the reason being they cost more?!)

AND... they LOVE their pets. We have dined in restaurants where there are more dogs (either under the table or in the owner's laps) than humans doing the same thing!! AND... they seem to be picking up after their pets more (we have not had a smelly shoe yet!)

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Places of Provence

The Camargue

We hired a car in Arles but we decided to do a tour of this wilderness area with a local guide... It was well worth it. It's a wetland between the Big Rhone & the Little Rhone after it splits north of Arles. We have seen very few Australian travellers but we were joined by a couple from a cattle property near Albury. It's hard to describe this unique area: rice fields (biggest area in Europe), Camargue Bulls roaming the lowlands with their inoffensive horns, Spanish Bulls being bred for the bull-fights with horns to do the job, the world-famous Camargue white ponies (about 10000 of them roaming the area), flamingoes feeding along the shore of the lake, migratory birds arriving for summer and a small town right on the Medditeranean Sea called Saintes-Marie's-De-la-Mer named after the two Marys who were followers of Jesus and had to escape persecution in Israel by boat and landed at this point in the Mediterranean in 42AD. There is a massive church in the centre of town in their honour. It was quite a day!!
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Carriéres de Lumiéres

We went on a short road trip to Les Baux-de-Provence, one of those dinky old fortified villages perched high on a rocky outcrop that just forces you to take too many photos. We happened upon something more unique than even that! A huge, underground quarry just under the village has been converted into a dynamic, moving, changing kaleidoscope of pictures and sound which covers all the walls of the quarry as well as the floor and the ceiling. The artist Marc Chagall's life & work were featured in this 45 minute jaw-dropping experience. The only one in the world that say!!
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Colours of Provence

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Vincent's Painting

The actual cafe that Vincent painted in Place du Forum

The actual cafe that Vincent painted in Place du Forum

Wildlife of Provence

I'll leave this to Jen to put up on her Jennifer Willis Photography page... there IS wildlife galore in Provence!!

History of Provence

Arles
When you think of Julius Caesar, you think of Rome (I do anyway) but we found out that he actually founded the city in 46BC and set up a vibrant Roman culture there which lasted for centuries until the fall of the Roman Empire in the fifth century. Arles boasts a Roman Arena built in 90AD with a seating capacity of 20 000 people. It was used for chariot races as well as hand-to-hand combat. It is still used today sadly for the Spanish-style bull fights(to the death) as well as the more gentle Courses Camargue. We were blown away by the Amphitheatre as well: built right beside the Arena. It is a more authentic historical sight because they haven't built modern seats there to house the bull-fight spectators.
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Produce of Provence

Honestly, there is NO way we could describe the food we have encountered here in the markets of Provence but the biggest sellers are the immense array of cheeses (not cheap but magnifeque) , mouldy sausages, a myriad of olive products, lavender (they even have lavender ice cream!) and, of course, fresh fruit and veggies. Baguettes are their staple much like rice among the Asian communities. They make it 3 times per day! We are loving the Provencal platters!!

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Agony Aunts in Provence

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We've decided to create our own questions and answer them for our readers... No effort on your part at all. So, here we go!!
(if, however, you DO have a question you want answered, please feel free to ask!!)

1. Dear Agony Aunts: What should I do if an elderly Frenchman gives me the eye while I am innocently watching him & his equally elderly mates play a game of Boule in a park??
Answer: Pretend you are looking for the nearest loo, then get out of there as quickly as you can.. You are In mortal danger..
This has happened to me and it can get quite shabby!

2. Dear Agony Aunts: How many days can I wear my 'smalls' before it is considered untidy when I am travelling in a relatively cool climate?
Answer: Where is your self-respect? How could you even consider it appropriate to stretch it out for longer than one day? Stop your nonsense and make every night a Chinese Laundry kind of night.

A thought or two:

As we travel and consider the privilege we have in seeing so much and experiencing so many wonders of this world, we, like Jane Fonda, must say:
Reverence is human within me!

And as Helen Keller said:
[i]Knowledge is love and light and vision/i]

Posted by TravellingLight 21:41 Archived in France Comments (4)

Provence... Ah! Provence...

Part 1: The South-ish


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Alone again...

After we said good-bye to our dear friends, we settled into our shoe box in Arles (14sq metres and it was ALL ours for 4 nights!) We used AirBnB to make our accomodation bookings. Can we just mention the fact that a wide angled lens can be used to great advantage!!! We consider living in small spaces a good practice for travelling in Gidget when we get her!!
We picked up a manual, left-handed Peugeot for the rest of our stay in Southern France... I've only stalled it twice so far when we took a wrong turn in the middle of Arles and ended up driving through the narrowest 'Rues' we've ever seen!
And as far as travelling light is concerned, we are happy to report that we are lighter again since the Duggan clan left us!! (Or could it be more that we have already placed some sneaky little souvenirs into Janet's bags and they are flying home as we write!! Thanks, Janet!!)

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Posted by TravellingLight 21:24 Archived in France Comments (3)

Then came the Duggans....

Paris to Provence in 8 days & 1800 kms!

sunny 13 °C
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Good-bye Paris, Hello Normandie

Stranger things have happened.. Why not find a bunch of fellow travellers and jam us all (9 humans, their amazing array of bags and a few soft toys) into a van to travel around Normandie, Loire Valley & the Alps for a week?
What a ball we had.. Everyone settled into their own little patch with bags all around us as cushions as we jollied along from place to place.
Watching the bags being jammed into the back of the van every morning made us feel a bit uncomfortable about our Blog name.. OUR bags even feel heavier.... Couldn't be the souvenirs we are sneaking into them surely?
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On the way to the coast we found Claude Monet's magnificent garden and water ponds in Giverney where we 'wandered lonely as a cloud.. Among the golden daffodils' (apologies to Wordsworth). The photos say it all..
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France & England have a LONG history.. One of the examples of that is the 70 metre LONG tapestry beautifully preserved in Bayeaux which depicts the Battle of Hastings in 1066 and the story behind William the Conqueror from Normandie becoming King of England.. Remarkable,,
We made it to the English Channel in the afternoon and were blown away by the reality of the horrors of World War 11 this time. There is a circular theatre at Arromanches where DDay (6 June 1944) and the 100 day push to reclaim Paris and France were depicted... More history that astounds us. One thing that we both pondered was that, after the grinding trench warfare of the Western Front in WW1 and the atrocious waste of life defending such a narrow belt of land to hold back the German push towards Paris, the Germans occupied the whole of France very quickly in WW11.
I read 'The Snow Goose' by Paul Galico before we left just to remember the emotion of the escape back to Britain of thousands of troops at Dunkirk in June 1940. Winton Churchill's words 'we will return' was realised 4 years later.
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'Even though large tracts of Europe and many old and famous States have fallen or may fall into the grip of the Gestapo and all the odious apparatus of Nazi rule, we shall not flag or fail. We shall go on to the end. We shall fight in France, we shall fight on the seas and oceans, we shall fight with growing confidence and growing strength in the air, we shall defend our island, whatever the cost may be. We shall fight on the beaches, we shall fight on the landing grounds, we shall fight in the fields and in the streets, we shall fight in the hills; we shall never surrender,'
Arguably the most stirring speech ever broadcast by Winston... And it worked... Paris was reclaimed from the Nazis in August 1944 not without immense loss of catastrophic proportions.
We saw a very sad movie called 'Sarah's Key' before we left home as well.. Tells the story of the Jewish roundup in Paris by French authorities early in WW11. Atrocious but worth watching. One of our favourite Book Club novels last year was 'All the Light We Cannot See' by Anthony Doerr. A must read
as well. It has to be one of the most eloquently written and most poignant story I've ever read... Just read it!

Mont Saint Michael... What a sight on a clear day and we had it just right!! It's an abbey set out in a very muddy estuary.... The second most visited site after Paris... We spent a very cosy night there with that amazing view just out our window. Donna did all the bookings for us for this week together and she has done soooo well!!
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Good-bye Normandie, Hello Loire Valley...

Now we guess you are thinking when are they going to mention 'travelling light' again? Well, we the collective 'we', are definitely NOT travelling light and this weather (maximum 12 degrees on most days) and the glorious array of French food in every little village we stop in guarantees that the body mass (collectively of course), is not getting any light either... But, in the truest sense of the word light, we are travelling.
The good old Webster dictionary defines LIGHT:
a : something that makes vision possible
b : the sensation aroused by stimulation of the visual receptors

We stayed in an historic Chateau in the Loire Valley.. One of many scattered down this beautiful, rich area. Jen & I were in the Stables... No horses but beautifully renovated... Very posh and very French. It was occupied by German officers and soldiers during WW11; a very common occurrence.

Now it all might sound as though things were fabulously chipper but the truth of the matter is that our esteemed leader went down with the flu while we were in the Loire Valley which put a dampener on each of us as we found it hard to see how sick Donna was. Thankfully we had a bag of drugs and found the right one to suit Donna's ailment and she began to recover with a couple of days. A real treat was a day in a vintage 1950s Citroen poking around the Chateaus, villages and wineries. The highlight had to be the third or maybe fourth most visited spot in France: Chateau Chenonceau. This chateau was built across a river in the 1500s and has quite a history.. One which we will not bore you with other than to say Louis X1V visited... Knew you'd be impressed!!
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Good-bye Loire Valley, Hello Rhone Alps

How do you get from the Loire Valley to Aubenas in the Rhone Alps? You get into a 9 seater van at 9am and you drive like the dickens for 6.5 hours and 'Voila!!' There you are!! I took over the driving as Donna was so 'off colour' and, I can safely say, I can now drive on the right-hand side of the road without killing anyone inside or outside of the van!! This day was Janet's 66th birthday as well so we partied all day in the van with a bag full of treats to keep us all happy!! Our main aim was to reach the remarkable Chauvet Caves for our 4.20pm booking.
Here are the facts:

Chauvet Cave. The Chauvet-Pont-d'Arc Cave in the Ardèche department of southern France is a cave that contains the earliest known and best preserved figurative cave paintings in the world, as well as other evidence of Upper Paleolithic life.

Pretty impressive!!
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After a morning market in Aubenas where we sampled some questionable sausages and blocks of cheese that we could never carry, we headed for.... Provence!! Only 1.5 hours drive... An absolute breeze!!

Good-bye Rhone Alps, Hello Provence

I may not have mentioned this earlier but Donna did all the planning and selections of accommodation & activities for these 8 days together, we just paid up and went for a ride... And what was ride it has been!! Our first port of call in Provence was the ancient World Heritage sight of Pont de Gard, a 50 metre high (that's 10 elephants piled on top of each other), 275 metre long (that's 3 A380 airplanes), 2000 year old structure used as part of an elaborate water channel for the Romans who lived in Nimes at that time to have lovely spring water to bath in... The only problem was the spring water was easily 30 kms up stream.. No problem! Just build a water channel over the countryside & over rivers between and your Roman bath is filled!! (Please note: ensure that a 12 metre slope is factored in over the distance for regular water flow)
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Our accommodation here has been a renovated winery just outside of Beaucaire... We have definitely been spoilt in every way on this road trip with the Duggan clan.. We travelled 1800 kms in 7 amazing nights... We did a major semi-circle around France and saw some of the most iconic & remarkable places.. Thank you, Donna & family for sharing this precious time together.. Rami & Eisha were excellent travellers and charming children.. Can't wait for the next reunion (in Australia in July!!)
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Just to LIGHT up your lives...

"Life is not a matter of creating a special name for ourselves, but of uncovering the name we have always had."
Richard Rohr

"The secret to living well and longer is: eat half, walk double, laugh triple and love without measure..."
Tibetan proverb

Posted by TravellingLight 11:17 Comments (5)

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